TASTE TEST: Captain's House counts lobster rolls among many seafood options

Half of a lobster roll is shown at the Captain's House restaurant in Gary's Miller neighborhood.

Lobster rolls have been taking off in popularity in Chicago in recent years. 

The New England classic, a more democratic version of the crustacean that's often associated with fine dining, is now served at many trendy restaurants in the city like Da Lobster, Luke's Lobster, GT Fish & Oyster, Acadia and The Happy Lobster Truck. But it's still been rare in Northwest Indiana.

The Captain's House in Gary's Miller neighborhood, formerly Chart House, has an amazing lobster roll you won't soon forget. The beach-themed eatery at 6004 Miller Ave. has a seafood-heavy menu with shrimp and grits, fish tacos, a salmon burger and a Boozy Cod sandwich.

Chef Angela McCrovitz's New England Lobster Roll is positively decadent. Tender, succulent chunks of sweet buttery Maine lobster are tucked into a toasted and well-buttered New England hot dog bun, which has more of the consistency of Texas toast than what we're accustomed to in the Midwest.

The contrast between the chilled lobster meat and the warm bread stimulates the palate. The Captain's House embellishes on the classic formula by heirloom grape tomatoes, lettuce, green onions, celery for a crunchier mouth feel, and a chive mayo that goes above and beyond the standard mayo that's often slathered on lobster rolls at roadside stands along the New England coast.

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Joseph S. Pete is a Lisagor Award-winning business reporter who covers steel, industry, unions, the ports, retail, banking and more. The Indiana University grad has been with The Times since 2013 and blogs about craft beer, culture and the military.