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History, tours and scenic parks make small Indiana town perfect summer vacation destination

A step back in time

A step back in time
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Staying close to home to save gas dollars unlocks the door to adventures that otherwise might be missed.

And one such trip is a step back in time, to a place where it is possible to walk down brick lined streets and feel suspended in a moment two centuries ago. Such is New Harmony, Ind., nestled along the Wabash River in the southwest section of the state.

Listed by the National Trust for Historic Preservation on its annual list of America's Dozen Distinctive Destinations and also featured in Midwest Living Magazine in its 2008 Best of the Midwest, New Harmony is proof that the ideas of communes were alive before the 1960s. For it was here that not one but two communes, dedicated to hard work and education, were established in the early 1800s.

Originally founded as the Harmonist commune in 1814, at a time when most of the state was a wilderness, New Harmony changed hands again when Robert Owen, a Welsh born industrialist and social philosopher, purchased the town in 1824.

The Owens creative vision brought many famous people to this little corner of Indiana including James Renwick, who designed the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C. Renwick was hired to create a laboratory for Robert's son, David, who was committed to the study of science.

Now almost 200 years later, the Owen family continues to nurture and treasure New Harmony as well as perpetuate Robert Owen's vision. They hired Richard Meier to design the visitor's center. Called the Atheneum, it boasts sleek walls of smooth white stone and vast expanses of glass set amidst a field of emerald green and is set amongst the historic Harmonists buildings many of which date back to the early 1800s.

For parents who worry that all this charm and early 19th century architecture might bore children, even jaded kids often feel the lull of comfort and serenity that is what New Harmony is all about. Besides, there's action during the tours (total cost for a family is $25), which start at the Atheneum with a short movie about the two communes and how they changed the landscape of this rural region.

From there, the tour encompasses many of the eight Harmonist sites and the 25 Harmonist buildings that comprise Historic New Harmony. Most kids will enjoy stopping at the archaeological dig that is taking place on the grounds of Community House No. 2 as well as watching costumed interpreters show how they made such things as rope and candles back then. And few parents can resist reminding their offspring how easy they have it now.

Though the tours are reasonably priced, there are things to do here that don't cost a penny.

Stroll down to the Wabash River, a broad expanse of placid water, enjoy a candlelight walk on a Saturday evening in the Cathedral Labyrinth, made of rose granite, or visit one of the town's many gardens including the one in Church Park in the downtown, which is centered around the arched entranceway of an old Harmonist building and features a statue by Don Gummer, Meryl Streep's husband.

Other gardens not to be missed include the walled garden enclosing flower beds, statuary and the famed Roofless Church and Carol's Garden, dedicated in 1982 to the memory of Carol Owen Coleman, daughter of Kenneth and Jane Blaffer Owen, who created the garden.

New Harmony offers several festivals for families including ArchiCamp for budding architects (July 10) and the Wabash Heritage Paddlefest (Aug. 16), a 9.7-mile family-oriented canoe float with festive foods and beverages as well as music on the lawn of the Atheneum.

If you're traveling with grandma and grandpa, check out the Elderhostel events (June 16-20 and Oct. 6-10).

For those connecting to their inner German, attend Kunstfest (Sept. 20-21) to taste German foods, learn such traditional crafts as scherenschnitte, the craft of intricate paper cutting and listen to Germanic music.

Though not free, there are also horse and carriage rides that depart from the front of the Red Geranium and travel through town.

Food choices run the gamut here from gourmet (if you want to splurge, the Red Geranium, with its Maryland style crab cakes with spicy rémoulade sauce and rack of lamb in basil crust over English pea risotto with marinated peppers, is a must) to down home restaurants in the downtown.

But eating cheap doesn't mean bad food. Pick up sandwiches at the Main Street Market, grab a hand tossed pizza at Marconi's Pizzeria and Olde Fashioned Soda Shoppe. Stop at the Main Café, with its pressed tin ceiling, for breakfast and lunch or sip a glass of wine at the White House while enjoying their Night on the Porch concerts.

There are no chains in town (thank goodness) and the stores are an eclectic mix of antique shops, art galleries (there are quite a few), a wine and spirits vendor, a garden shop and even an antique doll store that also serves tea. Not to be missed -- and remember, it's free to look -- is Fragrant Farms, a cut flower farm that specializes in peonies.

Free:

Walk the Cathedral Labyrinth and the Harmonist Labyrinth

Picnic in Murphy Park and Church Park

Visit the Roofless Church

Visit the Working Men's Institute, Library & Museum (www.newharmonywmi.lib.in.us)

Visit the art galleries in New Harmony. Periodic gallery strolls and receptions that are free to attend:

* New Harmony Gallery of Contemporary Art (www.usi.edu/nhgallery/index2.asp)

* Hoosier Salon New Harmony Gallery (www.hoosiersalon.org -- click the New Harmony link)

* Women's Institute & Gallery (www.newharmony.biz/pages/womens%20institute.htm)

Take a self guided sculpture tour (pick up pamphlet at the Atheneum/Visitors Center)

Playtopia playground at Murphy Park

Upcoming events that are free to attend:

Traditional Fourth of July Celebration; Kunstfest; Golden Raintree Antique Show; Golden Raintree Auto Show; Christmas in New Harmony

Rapp-Owen Granary tour

New Harmony Project public readings

Rope Walk public readings

New Harmony Wabash River Greenway Recreation Trails

Harmonie State Park (only charges admission Memorial Day through Labor Day)

* Camping

* Hiking

* Swimming pool

* Picnicking

Deals

* Arthur Street Inn, room prices start at $50. (812) 682-3662.

* The Grimm House Inn, a bed and breakfast in an 1898 home. (812) 682-3015

* The Red Geranium Inn, located in the heart of Historic New Harmony, offers package specials that often include breakfast at the Red Geranium, its award winning restaurant.

* You can camp or rent a rustic cabin at Harmonie State Park, four miles south of New Harmony.

* There's also Murphy Park Camping in New Harmony with both primitive and modern camping as well as picnic areas and one of the area's largest playgrounds for children, Playtopia.

* Film at Atheneum/Visitors Center is $3 without taking a tour.

FYI:

* Antique Doll Shoppe, North and Arthur streets, (812) 682-3802

* Fragrant Farms, Inc. (888) 814-4665, www.fragrantfarms.com

* Harmonie State Park: (812) 682-4821 or for cabin and camping reservations, (866) 622-6746.

* Murphy Park Camping, (812) 682-4846.

* Red Geranium, (800) 782-8605. www.newharmonyinn.com

* Nothing in New Harmony is too far away and you'd have trouble getting lost if you tried, but be sure to download a map at www.usi.edu/hnh/walkingmap.asp.

* More information on lodging, dining and shopping is available online at www.newharmonybiz.com.

* New Harmony Theatre, www.usi.edu/nht

* Under the Beams concert series, www.underthebeams.com

* Heritage Artisans Week (in April), www.usi.edu/hnh/heritageweek.asp

* ArchiCamp (in July, for children), www.usi.edu/hnh/archicamp.asp

* Wabash Heritage Paddle Fest (in August), www.usi.edu/hnh/paddlefest.asp

* Walk Into The Past (in October), www.usi.edu/hnh/events.asp

* Spirits in Harmonie (in November), www.usi.edu/hnh/spiritsinharmonie.asp

* Apple Blossom Carriage Company, (812) 673-4385 or (812)568-9078

More about the Historic New Harmony tours:

Ticket prices are $10 per adult, $9 for seniors and AAA members, $5 for students ages 7-17, children younger than 7 are free, and $25 for a family.

The Golden Troupe exhibit is part of the guided walking tours. The troupe was a traveling theater company based in New Harmony in the late 1800s that performed all over the United States.

The exhibit is at Thrall's Opera House, its home theater, and features band uniforms, photographs, broadsides and instruments will be featured.

FYI: (812) 319-5952 or www.newharmony.org

Copyright 2012 nwitimes.com. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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